Thursday, September 17, 2009

Guatemala: Week 2

Well I'll start off with some pictures since I didn't have any last time... I have to give credit to Alex Pechette, Christie Donahue, and Jossie Frankiewicz for these pictures since I obviously don't have any.

This is Antigua, which was kind of our "home base" for the trip. We stayed here when we first arrived in Guatemala. It's a beautiful city surrounded by three volcanoes, the Volcan de Fuego, the Volcan de Agua, and Acatenango. The streets are all cobblestone and there are plazas located throughout the city with a beautiful church at the front of each.

This is our group on our way to Los Siete Altares (The Seven Altars), a series of waterfalls. We rode here in a 'taxi'--a.k.a. we stood in the back of an old jeep.

This is the largest waterfall of Los Siete Altares and the one we jumped off of.

Rio Dulce, where we met up with our driver Vinnicio on our way to Tikal.

Tikal! This is the most famous ruin that everyone thinks of when they think of Tikal. This ruin faced a square where there were many other ruins, like a city.

The hot springs... can you tell we were in the jungle?

This is our worksite! A majority of the work we did included moving a LOT of dirt from the left side of the photo to the right side. We also finished the reinforcement bars around the perimeter of the building and poured concrete on top of them.

This is one of the first days of volunteering, the first job Jossie and I had was to tie wires around the corner of each square of the rebar. I probably tied about 300 of these--let's just say my hands are very strong now. Later we filled in this section of the building in with dirt.

These guys were common visitors to the worksite...

We saw this on our way home from work one day. Now you know why you should wash your fruits and vegetables!

This is the view from the community where we worked one afternoon.

We had a break Saturday and Tino took us to a sacred lake high up in the mountains. It was a pretty tough climb, I think we figured out that we climbed around 3000 vertical feet that day.

Tino and his daughter Estefanie. She was too cute!

On Saturday local community radio station leaders stopped by the worksite. It was really nice to talk to the people we were helping out.


Our last day in Guatemala we went to the volcano Pacaya. This is us running down the side of one of the hills, the volcano is in the distance.

Me and the lava! You could walk right up to it. Although you didn't really want to cause it was real hot (taking this picture was difficult).

So the second week started our volunteering. We volunteered from Wednesday to Monday and took a break on Saturday to visit the lake. The first day we met Tino, the coordinator of the training center project. Tino is a former guerrilla of the civil war in Guatemala. Amanda, the coordinator from CasaSito, is writing his autobiography so she worked with him while we were working on the training center. The book is going to be very similar in style to I, Rigoberta Menchu, which I read before leaving for Guatemala. If anyone wants to know more about Guatemala I would highly recommend this book. It's a little hard to follow in that it's all in first person dialogue, but the descriptions of the war are very realistic. I found it hard to believe some of the things the government did to the people during the civil war, but Tino's stories confirmed those things. The brutal things they did were really very sad.

The first day we also met the construction managers, Walter and Silve (everyone referred to Silve as "sub-5," though, because the guy couldn't have been more than 4'8" tall). I later learned that these guys were actually volunteers as well or were paid very little for their work. When we weren't there would only work on the weekends, their days off, and still had other construction jobs during the week. When the supplies from our donation run out, they have to wait for more donations in order to continue the construction.

I spent the first couple days tying metal reinforcement bars with wire at each corner. Later we poured cement on top of the rebar. Our second project was moving a LOT of dirt from one side of the worksite to the other, in order to level it out. This was done with pickaxes, wheelbarrows, and shovels. The only power tool I saw the entire time I was there was a circular saw, which I think they used twice. Even to drill holes they have a hand-crank screwdriver-type thing.

The volunteer site was a couple houses down from Tino's, and we would go to his house for a morning snack and lunch. They would make us Guatemalan food, which mostly consisted of chicken, rice, beans, and hundreds of tortillas. There must've been at least 50 tortillas per person. It was really interesting to see his house, which was relatively nice compared to the ones surrounding it. Next to the worksite the houses were literally shacks with tin roofs. One day Tino's wife Betty showed us her huipiles, which are traditional hand-woven blouses worn by women. They were beautiful. Walter also told us about his upcoming wedding and it was interesting to hear the differences between weddings in the U.S. and in Guatemala. He is marrying a Mayan woman and he said she was weaving her own huipil in preparation for the wedding. He also said that they do not exchange rings and that the wedding is not a big deal; he joked that he could wear his work clothes to the wedding and he would look all right.

Saturday was our day off and we took a hike to a sacred lake high in the mountains. The Mayans believed that this lake was the center of the universe. It took a while to get to the lake because we had to hike up a long ways. When we got to the lake it was really beautiful, the mist would coming up over the trees and settle down on the lake. It was pretty obvious why the Mayans held the lake as sacred. Tino, Betty, and Silve cooked us lunch over a fire in the style of the guerrillas during the war. After the hike to the lake Tino told us stories of his time in the war. He spoke in Spanish and Christie translated for us, but I was able to understand about half of what he said. The government killed his father when he was very young and that is when he decided to fight in the war. He also believed for many years that his mother and siblings had been killed while he was away but was able to find them again after over 10 years. It was really eye-opening and at the same time sad to hear what had been happening in Guatemala in recent years (the war ended in 1996) since I doubt many people even know that this was occurring. If I hadn't read I, Rigoberta Menchu before I left I would've had no idea.

Monday was our last day of work and it was sad to say goodbye to Tino. I wished we could've stayed to work longer. Everyone was so appreciative of the work we had done it really made me realize what an impact we had on the people of the community.

Tuesday we went to visit the volcano Pacaya. This hike was not as bad as the hike to the sacred lake but was still difficult. Our guide started working at the volcano when he was 8 and had worked there for 30 years. He said he does the walk up the volcano twice a day and he loves his job because he loves the nature. When we got to the top we were able to see an actual lava flow, which was really cool (and hot). That night we went to a rooftop bar in Antigua which was very beautiful at night because you were able to see the three volcanoes surrounding the city.

Wednesday we flew home, and it was nice to return home finally. Returning home was again bittersweet like China because I wanted to stay and learn more about Guatemala and at the same time I wanted to come home and see my friends. I also had to start about 4 days after I got home. I had similar reactions to how I felt upon returning from China. Seeing the peoples' houses and the way they live really made me thankful for what I have in the United States. Believe me, we are very lucky. It's pretty hard to describe to people how a third-world country lives without seeing it for themselves.

This trip again made me want to visit and learn more about other cultures and countries. After visiting Guatemala I definitely want to continue learning Spanish and hopefully one day maybe be fluent. College is really the best time to explore the world so hopefully I will be able to have other travels. Perhaps if I do I will pick this up again. Until then, I hope you've enjoyed reading my blog. I've enjoyed sharing it with everyone and recording my memories for the future.I can truly say that this summer has been the best one yet and has definitely changed who I am as a person.

Until next time,

Katie

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Guatemala: Week 1

So I finally have a chance to post... I've been really busy with the start of school and whatnot. I only had access to a computer for about 15 minutes at a time in Guatemala so I didn't have a chance to update. Also, I'm going to have to find pictures are from other people since my camera was stolen... details to come.

Wednesday the 19th:

We flew into Guatemala City with a connection in Houston. We ended up having to wait in the airport a couple hours because Alex's flight from Miami was delayed, then we met our driver Vinnicio and he drove us to Antigua (about an hour away). Antigua used to be the capital of Guatemala, and is one of the bigger cities we stayed in. The streets are all cobblestone and lined with multicolored houses. It reminded me of something you'd see on Househunters International, one of my parent's favorite TV shows on HGTV. Antigua is one of the wealthier cities as well, there are lots of boutiques and restaurants owned by Europeans. The first night we met up with Christie and she took us to a restaurant that had live music. Christie works for CasaSito and also worked with us on the radio station project (and deserves credit for some of the pictures).

Thursday the 20th:

We woke up super early in order to drive to Porte Barrios, where we took a boat to Livingston. Arriving in Livingston was one of the scarier experiences I had on the trip. When we got off the boat, we were swarmed by Guatemalans trying to persuade us to come to various hotels. And when I say swarmed, I mean swarmed. Meanwhile, the driver of the boat is walking away with my luggage (he had helped me get it off the boat). So I'm clutching my backpack to make sure no there's no stray hands in it, following this random guy whose carrying my luggage away, and being followed by these yelling guys. After a few minutes they started to ask if we wanted various drugs. We told them no and at that point they became irate, shouting any combination of profanity and 'American' they could think of. We asked our boat driver to take us directly to our hostel, telling him we had a reservation. "Oh, you have a reservation!" he replied cheerfully. So we got back on the boat and he took us to another harbor where our hostel was located.

Needless to say, we were a little shook up by that. We decided to just walk around close to our hostel to find something to eat. We stopped at a little restaurant on the water with beer posters all over the walls. There were two items on the menu: fish and shrimp. Oh, and Gallo beer. You can't walk 10 feet in Guatemala without seeing a sign for Gallo. Anyways, the cook invited us back into the kitchen to see the seafood, proclaiming that he "caught it fresh this morning!" I got shrimp, and although it was swimming in grease that later solidified it actually turned out to be really good (at the time). It did give me a bit of a stomachache later.

We had been reading in Sean's guidebook about Los Siete Altares (The Seven Altars), a series of freshwater pools and waterfalls that was supposed to be close to Livingston. We asked our hostel owner about it and he said it was about a 20 minute car ride and a 20 minute walk and offered to call a 'taxi' for us. The taxi turned out to be an old pickup truck that the 10 of us stood in the back of for the ride. (This is actually a very common mode of transportation in Guatemala.) They dropped us off and we walked down a very dirty beach to Los Siete Altares. The pools were really pretty and it felt nice to swim since it was so hot. The waterfall furthest upstream had about a 10 or 12 foot ledge you could jump off which we took advantage of.

That night, we had dinner and just hung out at the hostel. We learned Alex's favorite card game Scopa (spelling?) which turned out to be a big hit for the rest of the trip.

Friday the 21st:

We took a boat in the morning from Livingston to Rio Dulce. It was about an hour boat ride and it was at that point I realized that we were literally in the jungle. There were dense trees on either side of the river rising up hundreds of feet. We also passed people in canoes checking their traps for fish. Vinnicio met us in Rio Dulce and we drove 5 hours to El Remate where we stayed at La Casa de Don David. The hotel had beautifully maintained grounds and was on the lake Peten Itza. We went to bed relatively early because the next day we were visiting Tikal National Park.

Saturday the 22nd:

We got up early to go to Tikal. Tikal National Park is where many of the Mayan ruins are located in Guatemala. This was one of the things I was most excited about going into this trip, and it was awesome. At the first temple, if you stood in a certain location and clapped your hands you could hear a squawk noise which was supposed to be the sound of the quetzal. (The quetzal is Guatemala's national bird and is also the unit of currency.) We climbed up the tallest temple, and from the top you could see the tops of the other temples poking out of the trees. We also went to the town center, where all the buildings have been unearthed and restored. They restore the temples in the original ways of the Mayans. There were courts for playing a game which our guide explained was like a combination of basketball and soccer--you had to get the ball in a hoop without using your hands. The winners of the game were sacrificed; this was a great honor. Our guide also explained that only 15% of the temples have been unearthed, and pointed to lots of random hills where buildings where still buried.

After a long hot day at Tikal we wanted to go swimming so we walked to an area on the lake that had a dock. The water was super clear and like bath water--probably around 80 to 85 degrees. There were a couple kids there swimming when we got there, and this unfortunately begins the story of how my camera was stolen. I was taking a picture of the sunset when Kunal realized that his glasses had fallen off the dock so I walked up to shore, put my camera in the case and set the case on top of my bag (next to everyone elses' bags). Then I walked back out onto the dock to help look for the glasses. About 20 minutes later we found them and when I walked back up to shore my camera was gone. We looked everywhere for it but couldn't find it. The only thing we could think of is that one of the little kids took it while we were distracted looking for the glasses. So that was a bummer. I lost all of my pictures from the ruins and the rest of the trip. Fortunately have more than enough pictures from everyone else, but it was also a bummer because I had just got the camera in China. Oh well. I'm currently bidding on another one on Ebay so we'll see how it goes...

Anyways, we went back to the hostel and had dinner and then hung out for a while. We spoke with Don David for a while and he told us that there were big spiders that came out at night near the rock walls in the garden. We went searching for some and they were not big spiders--they were TARANTULAS. The biggest, hairiest spiders I've ever seen in my life. Most of them hid in the rocks when we approached but we were able to snap a picture of a few. (Pictures to come soon.)

Sunday the 23rd:

Vinnicio picked us up and we drove back to Rio Dulce. This time we took a boat to la Casa Perrico. The hostel was only accessible by boat and was definitely the coolest we stayed in. It was literally in the middle of the jungle for only $7/night. There were boardwalks to get from room to room and really big gross spiders (again).

We went downtown Rio Dulce and did some shopping. I bought 2 hammocks, which I have no idea how I am supposed to go about hanging. Hammocks are everywhere in Guatemala. That night we went back and had dinner at the hostel, which was all-you-can-eat buffet style and was awesome. We hung out at the bar for a while with the hostel guard. This guy looked like Samuel L. Jackson, was dressed in all camo, and carried a shotgun. (Guns were actually pretty common in Guatemala. For example, the Pepsi trucks are open flatbed trucks and the racks are stacked on top. In Guatemala City, I saw guards with shotguns riding on top of the bottles. Also, when they are doing money exchanges at ATMs guards will stand outside with shotguns. I was near one when they were fixing it one time--it was definitely the closest I've been to a loaded gun in my life. It made me nervous. I don't know who would be stupid enough to try something with those guys, but I guess it's happened.)

Monday the 24th:

We spent most of this day driving from Rio Dulce to Antigua, about a 6 hour drive. When we got to Antigua we went out to eat at a Mexican restaurant and had a couple drinks. We went to bed relatively early.

Tuesday the 25th:

We drove from Antigua to Xela, where we were staying during our volunteering. We met up with Amanda (the CasaSito coordinator) and she took us to some hot spring pools up in the mountains. They were HOT. Definitely hotter than any hot springs I have ever been in before. But the view from the top was awesome, since we were almost at the peak of one of the mountains.

That night Amanda took us to get Guatemalan food, it was a tiny restaurant where we literally took up every table. The food was super cheap and pretty good too. I got chicken with this sort of orange bean sauce with cinnamon and rice. It was only 30 quetzales ($3.75) for the meal and drink. Can't really go wrong with that. That night we went to bed early because we had to get up at 6 AM the next day for volunteering.

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Phew, that was a lot of writing. This is where I will end it for now. Week two starts our volunteering. I'll also work on finding pictures to go with everything I just wrote above! Check back soon. Buenas Noches.

Katie